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Changdeokgung

Coordinates: 37°34′46″N 126°59′34″E / 37.57944°N 126.99278°E / 37.57944; 126.99278
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Changdeokgung
Overview of the palace (2012)
Map
General information
LocationSeoul, South Korea
Coordinates37°34′46″N 126°59′34″E / 37.57944°N 126.99278°E / 37.57944; 126.99278
Designations
Official nameChangdeokgung Palace Complex
CriteriaCultural: (ii), (iii), (iv)
Designated1997
Reference no.816
Area57.9 ha (0.224 sq mi)
Official nameChangdeokgung Palace Complex
Designated1963-01-18
Website
eng.cdg.go.kr/main/main.htm
Korean name
Hangul
창덕궁
Hanja
昌德宮
Revised RomanizationChangdeokgung
McCune–ReischauerCh'angdŏkkung

Changdeokgung (Korean: 창덕궁; Hanja: 昌德宮), also known as Changdeokgung Palace or Changdeok Palace, is set within a large park in Jongno District, Seoul, South Korea. It is one of the "Five Grand Palaces" built by the kings of the Joseon dynasty (1392–1897).[1]

Changdeokgung was the most favored palace of many Joseon kings and retained many elements dating from the Three Kingdoms of Korea period that were not incorporated in the more contemporary Gyeongbokgung. One such element is the fact that the buildings of Changdeokgung blend with the natural topography of the site instead of imposing themselves upon it. Like the other Five Grand Palaces in Seoul, it was heavily damaged during the Japanese occupation of Korea (1910–1945). Currently, only about 30% of the pre-Japanese structures of the East Palace Complex (Changdeokgung together with Changgyeonggung) survive.[2]

Name

[edit]

"Changdeokgung" means "Palace of Prospering Virtue".[3]

Changdeokgung and its neighboring palace Changgyeonggung are together known as the "Eastern Palaces" (동궐; 東闕), as they are located to the east of the city's main palace Gyeongbokgung.[4][5]

History

[edit]
See also: Changgyeonggung § History

Establishment

[edit]
See also: History of Seoul and Gyeongbokgung § Establishment

In 1392 (Korean calendar), Joseon was established. Afterwards, the state's capital Hanyang (also called Hanseong and later called Seoul) was established and Gyeongbokgung was made its main palace (법궁; 法宮; pŏpkung). Due to political turmoil, the capital was temporarily moved to Kaesong and then back to Hanyang in 1404.[6][7] King Taejong (r. 1400–1418) then ordered the establishment of Changdeokgung as a secondary palace (이궁; 離宮; igung). His possible motivations for this order have been analyzed. A number of scholars have argued Taejong wanted to avoid Gyeongbokgung because he associated it with unpleasant memories of familial deaths there[7][8] and thought it had inauspicious feng shui qualities.[7] Historians Lee et al. have also argued that he wanted a secondary palace to be freer from the political influences of government offices and politicians in and around Gyeongbokgung.[9]

A temporary office[a] was established to manage the creation of the palace. Changdeokgung's location was finalized on the 6th day, 10th month of 1404, and construction began that day.[10][b] Under the supervision of Yi Chik [ko], numerous artisans, soldiers, monks, and commoners worked on the construction.[10] The first phase of construction was completed on the 19th day, 10th month of 1405.[12] Taejong entered the palace on the 20th day of that month and held a celebration banquet there. At the time, there were only several complete buildings in the palace, including the royal bedchambers and bathhouse.[13] The palace had a recorded size of 287 rooms (칸; kan; k'an), of which 195 were in the naejeon (내전; 內殿; naejŏn; inner palace) and 92 were in the oejeon (외전; 外殿; oejŏn; outer palace).[14] There was likely not much space for government offices in the palace for government offices at the time; offices in and around Gyeongbokgung were repaired and officials likely went back and forth between those and Changdeokgung. Meanwhile, construction continued. In 1406, the shrine Insojeon (인소전; 仁昭殿; Insojŏn) and a Buddhist shrine were completed in the rear garden area, along with the pavilion Gwangyeollu (광연루; 廣延樓; Kwangyŏllu); in 1408, a pond was dug; and in 1411, a pavilion[c] was completed.[13]

Before the Imjin War

[edit]

For the rest of his reign, Taejong primarily resided in Changdeokgung.[4] Gyeongbokgung's restoration was ordered only after Taejong had moved into Changdeokgung.[8] Even after his abdication, he resided in the palace Suganggung (수강궁; 壽康宮; later became Changgyeonggung) next to Changdeokgung; from there he influenced the reign of his son Sejong the Great (r. 1418–1450).[10] Even after Taejong's abdication, construction continued. Part of a building collapsed and the supervisor of that building's construction was exiled as punishment. By 1418, facilities were deemed adequate enough to hold more significant ceremonies at Changdeokgung instead of at Gyeongbokgung.[9] From the third year of Sejong's reign, Sejong began putting more emphasis on Gyeongbokgung and moved frequently between the two palaces.[15][6] In 1426, he ordered that many structures in Changdeokgung be named.[15] In 1427, he entirely moved out of Changdeokgung and resided primarily in Gyeongbokgung, although he continued moving between the two frequently.[15][6] King Sejo (r. 1455–1468) significantly expanded Changdeokgung to the north and east. For one such project, 19,000 people from the Hanyang region were assembled. King Seongjo (r. 1469–1495) also expanded the palace and resided in Changdeokgung for the entirety of his reign. In 1475, he had all 29 of the palace's gates named and held a ceremony for the installation of their name plaques.[16] As there was not enough space in Changdeokgung for all the living queens in the royal family, he decided to expand Changgyeonggung for them instead.[17] King Yeonsangun (r. 1495–1506) also greatly renovated the palace, although renovations were put to a halt when he was deposed.[18]

Destruction and reconstruction

[edit]

In 1592, during the 1592–1598 Imjin War, all the city's palaces were completely burned down. It is debated who burned down the palaces, as surviving contemporary records are from intellectuals who did not witness the burnings. Various contemporary Korean texts, including the Veritable Records of Seonjo [ko], report hearsay that it was Korean commoners who burned down the palace to destroy palace records. When the Japanese invaders entered the city on the 2nd day, 5th month of that year, Gyeongbokgung was still in tact. Japanese discipline in the city was reportedly initially high, but when they began suffering defeats, they took their frustrations out on the city and locals, burning buildings and killing.[19][20]

After the war, efforts began to repair the city's palaces. Initially, plans were drawn up to have Gyeongbokgung repaired, but these were not acted upon. There is a record of arguments against Gyeongbokgung's reconstruction because of perceived inauspicious qualities of that palace. In addition, Joseon's economy had been devastated by the war, and funding for repairing Gyeongbokgung was likely difficult to procure. Changdeokgung was restored instead; a number of buildings were recreated in their original locations.[21] The first round of restorations was completed during the reign of King Gwanghaegun (r. 1608–1623) on the 1st day, 9th month of 1610. However, Gwanghaegun expressed little interest in Changdeokgung, and continued to reside in the temporary palace Gyeongungung (later became Deoksugung). In 1617, he had the palaces In'gyŏnggung [ko] and Kyŏngdŏkkung [ko] established.[22]

In 1623, during the Injo coup [ko] that installed King Injo (r. 1623–1649), rebels burned down almost all the buildings in Changdeokgung. Only Injeongjeon, two buildings for the Owi [ko], a palace pharmacy,[d] a building for the government office Ch'unch'ugwan, a building called Biseunggak,[e] a building for the government office Hongmun'gwan, and a building called Sujeongjeon[f] were spared.[21] Injo was crowned at Gyeongbokgung, and resided at Changgyeonggung.[23] He had In'gyŏnggung and Kyŏngdŏkkung demolished and recycled to repair Changdeokgung and Changgyeonggung.[22] Injo had the rear gardens renovated, and spent much relaxation time there.[24] In 1624, during Yi Kwal's Rebellion, Changgyeonggung was mostly burned down.[23] Injo then resided in Kyŏngdŏkkung temporarily, and first ordered that Changgyeonggung be repaired. In 1633, after repairs on Changgyeonggung were completed,[25] Injo ordered that Changdeokgung be repaired. He then began to temporarily reside in the palace pharmacy. Construction work on palaces was interrupted and delayed by the 1636 Qing invasion of Joseon. Minor construction projects occurred in the meantime, especially in the rear garden. Significant construction resumed in 1647 and concluded after five months in 1648; the rapid pace of reconstruction was in part due to the demolition and recycling of buildings in another palace Ingyeonggung [ko]. In total there were around 735 rooms in the palace around this time. One significant change after the reconstruction was the presence of more government office buildings. This was in part because the government offices in Gyeongbokgung had not been restored.[26]

This painting, Donggwoldo, depicts Changdeokgung (left) and Changgyeonggung (right) in c. 1824 – c. 1830[27]

After this reconstruction and without rivalry from Gyeongbokgung, Changdeokgung firmly became the main palace of Joseon. More buildings continued to be constructed in the palace. There was a fire in the palace in 1671.[28] Under the reign of King Sukjong (r. 1674–1720), the rear garden reached its greatest extent.[29] In 1687, a fire destroyed almost all of the Mansujeon area. In 1702, a fire destroyed part of the East Palace.[30] Succeeding kings continued to expand and renovate the palace, although King Yeongjo (r. 1724–1776) ordered much fewer repairs as he primarily resided in Gyeonghuigung.[29] There were a number of fires during the reign of King Sunjo (r. 1800–1834),[31] with one major one occurring in the 10th month of 1833.[30] During his reign, most construction at the palace was either rebuilding or maintenance work.[31] By the 19th century, Changdeokgung and Changgyeonggung were functionally a single palace. The two had some unique government officies, although they had some facilities with overlapping purposes.[32]

Late Joseon and Korean Empire periods

[edit]
A map[g] of Changdeokgung and Changgyeonggung (c. 1908)

In 1865, efforts began to restore Gyeongbokgung.[33] King Gojong (r. 1864–1907) and his family moved out of Changdeokgung and into Gyeongbokgung on the 2nd day, 7th month of 1868.[34] Although Gyeongbokgung was officially made Joseon's main palace, Changdeokgung continued to see some use. Gyeongbokgung experienced major fires in 1873 and 1876. After the 1876 fire, the royal family moved back into Changdeokgung and did not return to Gyeongbokgung until 1885,[32][35] after the 1884 Kapsin Coup. He would reside mostly in Gyeongbokgung until 1895.[36] Meanwhile, more maintenance work occurred at Changdeokgung. Such work was interrupted in by the 1882 Imo Incident.[37] In 1891, a number of Changdeokgung's buildings were disassembled and moved to Gyeongbokgung.[32]

Amidst increasing Japanese influence over Korea and the 1895 assassination of Empress Myeongseong at Gyeongbokgung, Gojong fled Gyeongbokgung and made Gyeongungung his official palace. From there, he established the Korean Empire and crowned himself emperor.[38][36] Gojong did not significantly use Changdeokgung thereafter. Some minor construction work continued at the palace in his absence.[36]

In 1905, Korea was made a protectorate of Japan, governed by the Japanese Residency-General of Korea [ja; ko].[39] On July 19, 1907, Gojong was forcefully deposed by Japan and replaced by his son and the final Korean monarch Emperor Sunjong (r. 1907–1910).[36] After ascending the throne, Changdeokgung was made Sunjong's primary residence, while Gojong continued to stay in Deoksugung. Historian Lee Gyu-cheol argued that Japan moved Sunjong to Changdeokgung in order to separate him from his father.[40] Soon after his coronation, Sunjong ordered that Changdeokgung be repaired. He moved in to the palace in November of that year.[36] The residency-general oversaw the demolition of large portions of the palace from 1907 to 1909; this has since been viewed critically by Lee et al., who argued it was an attempt to demolish a symbol of Korean sovereignty.[41]

Colonial period

[edit]

On August 29, 1910, Japan colonized Korea.[37] According to a 1912 document, The Office of the Yi Dynasty, an organization representing the former Korean royal family, owned the palace.[42] Japan continued significantly altering the palace, demolishing dozens of buildings.[43] Despite this, the overall outer boundary of the palace and its rear garden remained mostly unchanged throughout the colonial period.[44]

Around 5 p.m. on November 10, 1917,[45] a major fire broke out in the palace. It began in the former emperor's bedchambers Daejojeon and destroyed the naejeon area of the palace.[46][45] It was extinguished by 8 p.m. that day.[45] Numerous valuables and historic relics were lost in the fire.[46][45] Reconstruction work began soon after and lasted for years afterwards, although it was delayed by the 1919 March First Movement protests.[46] The colonial government ordered that many of Gyeongbokgung's buildings be demolished and recycled for reconstructing Changdeokgung.[47] Daejojeon was reconstructed by 1920, and the former royal family resumed living in it.[48]

Sunjong died in the palace on April 25, 1926.[48] Historian Se-Mi Oh argued that, after Sunjong's death, efforts to modify the palace accelerated.[49] In either 1927[49] or 1931,[50] the road Yulgok-ro [ko] was constructed between Jongmyo and Changdeokgung, separating the two entities for the first time.[51][49] described the separation as "direct violence against the sacred ancestral shrine and the monarchy".[49]

Post-liberation

[edit]

Parts of the palace (notably Nakseon-jae hall) continued to function as a royal residence up to 1989, when both Princess Deokhye and Crown Princess Bangja died. Other post-WWII residents included Empress Sunjeong (Sunjong's second wife), Crown Prince Yi Un, his son Yi Gu and Yi Gu's wife Julia Mullock. Residence for former royals in the palace in the post-war period was at the whim of the South Korean presidents, and after the Korean liberation in 1945 it would take the resignation of Rhee Syngman for former imperial family members to be allowed back in.

Changdeokgung was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1997. The UNESCO committee stated the place was an "outstanding example of Far Eastern palace architecture and garden design" being exceptional because the buildings are "integrated into and harmonized with the natural setting" and adapted "to the topography and retaining indigenous tree cover."[52]

Today there are 13 buildings remaining on the palace grounds and 28 pavilions in the gardens, occupying 110 acres (45 hectares) in all and the area is designated as Historical Site No. 122.

Design and layout

[edit]

The palace was designed in consideration of both ancient Chinese principles and practicality.[53] Changdeokgung's primary layout is based on the three gates and three courtyards (삼문삼조; 三門三朝; sammunsamjo) system,[53] from the Chinese work Kaogongji, part of the Rites of Zhou. The system advocates for palaces to have three main sections that are to be accessed in sequential order. The sections proceed from public-facing to private.[54] These sections are the first courtyard (외조; 外朝; used for government offices), second courtyard (치조; 治朝; ch'ijo; used for conducting politics between the king and his subjects), and third courtyard (연조; 燕朝; where the king and his family resided).[54]

Lee et al. subdivided the palace as such: oejŏn, naejŏn, East Palace, government offices, and rear gardens (also called Secret Garden).[55]

Changdeokgung is based primarily on a west to east axis, in contrast to Gyeongbokgung's south to north axis. Correspondingly, the outer palace proceeds east to the inner palace.[56]

Relationship with Changgyeonggung

[edit]
See also: Changgyeonggung

Changdeokgung and Changgyeonggung have been strongly interlinked, and have been described as functionally being a single palace. Buildings for which there was insufficient space in Changdeokgung were often constructed in Changgyeonggung instead. Changdeokgung and Changgyeonggung are separated by the gate Geonyangmun (건양문; 建陽門; Kŏnyangmun). Over time, various contradicting claims have been made about which buildings (particularly those on the border of the two palaces) belonged to which palace. Such claims were made about the East Palace, Junghuidang, and Changgyeonggung's Jeoseungjeon (저승전; 儲承殿; Chŏsŭngjŏn).[57]

According to a 1912 document, the two palaces were then considered to belong to the same administrative district: Waryong-dong [ko].[42] The two palaces were physically divided with a border wall during the colonial period. In 1963, the border wall was used to define a formal legal boundary between the two palaces. This boundary has persisted to the present.[57]

Landmarks

[edit]

Outer gates

[edit]
Photo Structure
Donhwamun [ko] (돈화문; 敦化門; Tonhwamun)

The main and south gate of the palace. It is a designated Treasure of South Korea and the oldest extant gate of all Joseon palaces.[58] It is named after a phrase "大德敦化" from the Chinese text Doctrine of the Mean. That phrase has been interpreted in this context as "to govern with a warm heart and edify with virtue".[59] It was completed on the 22nd day, 5th month of 1412.[60] In 1413, a bill was hung at the gate.[10] It was renovated in 1418.[61] It was destroyed in 1592, during the Imjin War.[62] It was reconstructed in 1607[63] or 1608.[64] There are no records of it being destroyed thereafter, although it was restored or remodeled on a number of occasions.[62] There is a wŏldae in front of the gate. The wŏldae was demolished in the early 1900s to accommodate the entry of royal vehicles.[58] The wŏldae and gate were restored to their pre-colonial states in 1996.[65] The gate has a second floor that contains a bell and drum used to signal emergencies. The head of a rebel leader was hung at the gate in 1728.[59]

Geumhomun [ko] (금호문; 金虎門; Kŭmhomun; lit. Metal Tiger Gate)

The west gate of the palace. It is so named because of Chinese tradition where metal corresponds to west and the White Tiger is the guardian of the west.[66]

Yogeummun (요금문; 曜金門; Yogŭmmun)
Danbongmun (단봉문; 丹鳳門; Tanbongmun)

A small gate on the south side of the palace. It was used mainly by kungnyŏ (court ladies) and the extended royal family.[67]

Gyeongchumun (경추문; 景秋門; Kyŏngch'umun)

Oejo

[edit]

Oejo (외조; 外朝) refers to a part of a palace where the king conducts state affairs.[68][56] It can be subdivided into the chŏngjŏn (정전; 正殿; jeongjeon; main area[69]) and p'yŏnjŏn (편전; 便殿; pyeonjeon; secondary area[70]).[56]

Oejŏn

[edit]
Photo Structure
Jinseonmun (진선문; 進善門; Chinsŏnmun)

It was completed on the 18th day, 3rd month of 1411.[61] At the time, it possibly served as the outermost gate to the palace.[71] It was demolished in 1908[37] and restored in 1996.[71]

Sukjangmun (숙장문; 肅章門; Sukchangmun)

Its right and left annexes were destroyed in the Imjin War, and rebuilt in 1647.[22]

Injeongmun [ko] (인정문; 仁政門; Injŏngmun)

Gate to Injeongjeon. There is no record of when it was built, but it is presumed to have been completed around the time of the palace's founding. Its corridors were constructed from 1418 to 1419; Sejong was so displeased that he ordered them demolished and had the construction supervisor imprisoned. The corridors were rebuilt afterwards.[71] They were rebuilt in 1647.[22] The gate was destroyed in 1592 during the Imjin War and rebuilt during the reign of Gwanghaegun.[71] It was rebuilt in 1745; this version has persisted until the present.[63] The gate and corridors were restored to their pre-colonial states from 1992 to 1996.[72] It has corridors to its left and right that eventually angle and form a trapezoid.[71]

Injeongjeon [ko] (인정전; 仁政殿; Injŏngjŏn; lit. Hall of Benevolent Governance[73])

The throne hall of the palace.[74] It was destroyed by fire in 1403 and rebuilt the following year. One of its buildings burned down in 1411, which destroyed many Goryeo-era documents.[30] It was expanded and completed on the 7th day, 7th month of 1418. It was renovated in 1452.[60] It was destroyed during the 1592–1598 Imijn War and spared during the 1623 Injo coup.[23] It was destroyed in a fire on the 13th day, 12th month of 1803 and rebuilt on the 17th day, 12th month of 1804.[75] This version of the building has persisted until the present, although it was renovated over time.[76] It was renovated between 1854 and 1857.[32] It was significantly renovated and its annexes were significantly renovated or demolished around 1907 to 1909.[43] It is a single story, two-tiered structure with a large open ceiling.[73] It stands on a wŏldae. Major state events were held at this building and its front courtyard, such as enthronement ceremonies.[77] It is designed to accept energy from Korea's mountains and watersheds. On its roof exterior are five Imperial Seals of Korea that were possibly added by Emperor Sunjong.[78]

Seonjeongmun (선정문; 宣政門; Sŏnjŏngmun)

It was rebuilt in 1647; this version has persisted until the present.[63]

Seonjeongjeon [ko] (선정전; 宣政殿; Sŏnjŏngjŏn; lit. Spreading Governance Hall[79])

A single-story hall where the king received council and conducted politics. Spirit tablets were also possibly stored here.[80] It was built in 1405 and originally named Jogyecheong (조계청; 朝啓廳; Chogyech'ŏng). It received its current name in 1461. After being destroyed in 1592 during the Imjin War, it was rebuilt in 1608. It was destroyed in 1623 during the Injo coup and rebuilt in 1647, using materials recycled from a building called Gwangjeongjeon in In'gyŏnggung. It has since become the oldest extant building in the palace.[81] It is the only remaining Joseon palace building with blue roof tiles, which were then considered luxurious and difficult to make.[82][83] During the colonial period, the building was opened to the public, and glass put in its windows. The building was restored to its pre-colonial appearance in 1996.[83]

Government offices

[edit]

The government offices inside palaces are called kwŏllaegaksa [ko] (궐내각사; 闕內各司; gweollaegaksa). Changdeokgung's facilities were relatively small and meant for daily work with the king; most large government ministry facilities were located outside the palace,[84][56] for example on Yukcho Street [ko].[84] After being destroyed in 1592 during the Imjin War, government offices were rebuilt during in 1647.[22] Many offices that had once existed in Gyeongbokgung were moved over to Changdeokgung.[56] All government office buildings in front of Seonjeongjeon and Huijeongdang were demolished between 1907 and 1909.[41]

Photo Structure
Imunwon [ko] (이문원; 摛文院; Imunwŏn)

It was completed on the 10th day, 3rd month of 1781.[31]

Geomseocheong (검서청; 檢書廳; Kŏmsŏch'ŏng)

It was demolished some time between 1911 and 1921.[41]

Bongmodang (봉모당; 奉謨堂; Pongmodang)

A hall used an archive for the possessions of previous monarchs.[85]

Book storage (책고; 冊庫; chaekgo; ch'aekko)
Yemungwan (예문관; 藝文館; Yemun'gwan)

There was a fire here on the 6th day, 3rd month of 1811.[75]

Hongmungwan (홍문관; 弘文館; Hongmun'gwan)

Also called Okdang (옥당; 玉堂; lit. Jade Hall). Used by the government office Hongmun'gwan, which maintained palace records and advised the king.[86] It was demolished some time between 1911 and 1921.[41]

Naeuiwon (내의원; 內醫院; Naeŭiwŏn)
Eokseongnu (억석루; 憶昔樓; Ŏksŏngnu)

A two-story building likely used by the Naeŭiwŏn (palace pharmacy).[87]

Naejo

[edit]

Naejŏn

[edit]

Naejŏn (내전; 內殿; naejeon) refers to a part of a palace where a king or queen resided.[88] Palace women, particularly those of the Naemyŏngbu, also often used this space. When space for buildings became insufficient in this part of the palace, buildings were constructed in Changgyeonggung instead.[56] The naejŏn experienced a fire in 1833 and was rebuilt in 1834.[36] It was completely destroyed in the 1917 fire.[89]

Photo Structure
Huijeongdang [ko] (희정당; 熙政堂; Hŭijŏngdang; lit. Peaceful Governance Hall[90])

It was originally built as a bed chamber for the king[90] named Sumundang (수문당; 修文堂). It caught fire in the 6th month of 1492. In the 12th month of that year it was ordered to be repaired and was given its current name.[91] After being destroyed in 1592 during the Imjin War, it was rebuilt in 1608. It was destroyed during the 1623 Injo coup. It was rebuilt in 1647, using materials from In'gyŏnggung's building Hwajŏngdang (화정당; 和政堂; Hwajeongdang).[92] It burned down on the 17th day, 10th month of 1833[93]and was repaired by the 9th month of 1834.[30] It was destroyed in the 1917 fire and rebuilt by 1920[92] using materials from Gyeongbokgung's Gangnyeongjeon. It was rebuilt larger and in a different style to its previous form. Western furniture was brought in.[46] It was used as a council hall during Sunjong's reign.[90]

Daejojeon [ko] (대조전; 大造殿; Taejojŏn; lit. Achieving Greatness Hall[94])

A hall used as the main living quarters for the king and office of the queen.[95] It was possibly originally named Yanguijeon (양의전; 兩儀殿; Yangŭijŏn) in 1461, but began to go by "Daejojeon" shortly afterwards.[96][h] King Seongjong died here in 1495. After being destroyed in 1592 during the Imjin War, it was rebuilt in 1608 and destroyed in 1623 during the Injo coup. It was rebuilt in 1647, using materials from In'gyŏnggung's building Kyŏngsujŏn (경수전; 慶壽殿; Gyeongsujeon).[96] It burned down on the 17th day, 10th month of 1833[93] and was repaired by the 9th month of 1834.[30] It has an attached hall, Heungbokheon (흥복헌; 興福軒; Hŭngbokhŏn). That hall was where the final cabinet meeting was held before Korea's 1910 annexation.[97] This is where the 1917 fire began; the fire completely destroyed Daejojeon and its annex buildings.[89][46] Gyeongbokgung's building Gyotaejeon [ko] was recycled to reconstruct Daejojeon[98][99] and its annexes Heungbokheon and Yunggyeongheon.[99] It was completed by 1920.[48] Sunjong died here in 1926.[48] Near the hall is a small palace kitchen (수라간; 水剌間; suragan) that was constructed during Sunjong's reign. It has modern Western facilities, like a sink and oven.[100]

Gyeonghungak (경훈각; 景薰閣; Kyŏnghun'gak; lit. Heartwarming Scenery Hall[101])

It was originally a two-story[46] annex building to the rear of Daejojeon used for leisure.[46] It was destroyed by the 1917 fire.[89][102][46] In 1920,[63] Gyeongbokgung's Mangyeongjeon was dismantled and recycled to rebuild the hall as a single-story building.[102][46] During the colonial period, it was significantly used by the former royal family before the 1926 death of Sunjong, with English, Japanese, and piano lessons being held here. It was no longer significantly used by them afterwards.[48] It has a rear garden decorated with flower motifs.[103]

East Palace

[edit]

The East Palace (동궁; 東宮; Donggung; Tonggung) was used as the residence, study area, and office of the crown prince,[104][56] although when it was not occupied by a crown prince it was used for other purposes.[56] Before the Imjin War, it was located outside the confines of Changdeokgung. It was reconstructed after the Imjin War, but after a series of fires, it was reconstructed closer to the rest of the palace, as part of the naejo.[105] Its facilities became shared by both Changdeokgung and Changgyeonggung,[104][56] and its main gates are located to the east, meaning that it was primarily meant to be accessed from Changgyeonggung.[56] After Gyeongbokgung and that palace's East Palace was reconstructed in the late 19th century, Changdeokgung's East Palace lost its utility.[106] Many of the buildings in this area no longer exist.[104]

Photo Structure
Seongjeonggak (성정각; 誠正閣; Sŏngjŏnggak)

The hall was used for the education of the king and crown prince.[107][108] It is named for a phrase from the Chinese text Great Learning, which encourages that leaders cultivate their own character and education before ruling.[107]

Gwanmulheon (관물헌; 觀物軒; Kwanmurhŏn; lit. Observing Matters Hall[109])

A study hall for the education of the king and crown prince. It is the birthplace of Emperor Sunjong. It was the stronghold of the Enlightment Party during the 1884 Kapsin Coup.[109]

Junghuidang [ko] (중희당; 重熙堂; Chunghŭidang; lit. Continuously Shining Hall[110])

The main hall is no longer extant. It was the crown prince's residence. It was originally built in 1782, likely for Crown Prince Munhyo.[108][111] It was meant to replace older facilities in the East Palace that had previously burned down.[112] After Munhyo's premature death, it was used as a council hall.[113][111] It was relocated elsewhere in 1891; its former location has remained empty ever since.[114] A number of related buildings still stand, including the crown prince's library Seunghwaru (승화루; 承華樓; Sŭnghwaru) and the gazebo Samsamwa (삼삼와; 三三窩).[111]

Secret Garden

[edit]

The rear garden (후원; 後苑; Huwon; Huwŏn), popularly known as the Secret Garden [ko] (비원; 秘院; Biwon; Piwŏn),[i] is located to the north and rear of both Changdeokgung and Changgyeong, and access to it is shared by both palaces. It was a private garden used often for leisure, but also for politics, ceremonies, military training drills, and civil service and military examinations.[116] Leisure activities included hunting, parties, and practicing martial arts.[117] Prior to the 20th century, entrance into the garden was prohibited for most people.[118] A new road was built in the area in 1909.[46] It has a number of artificial ponds and pavilions.[57] It has over 160 species of trees. More than 70 trees in this area are over 300 years old.[119] The garden's highest elevation is in its center, and it slopes to the east and west.[120]

Buyongjeong area

[edit]
Photo Structure
Buyongjeong [ko] (부용정; 芙蓉亭; Puyongjŏng; lit. Lotus Flower Pavilion[121][122])

A pavilion on the south side of an artificial pond named Buyongji (부용지; 芙蓉池; Puyongji).[121][123] The pond was dug in 1707. Originally, a building called Taeksujae (택수재; 澤水齋; T'aeksujae) was located next to the pond. That building was torn down and replaced. It was renamed Buyongjeong in 1776.[121] It was reconstructed in 1793.[31]

Yeonghwadang (영화당; 暎花堂; Yŏnghwadang)

A pavilion to the east of Juhamnu.[124] It was first completed in 1692.[125]

Juhamnu [ko] (주합루; 宙合樓; Chuhamnu; lit. Place Open to the Universe[126])

A large two-story building on the top of a hill. It was completed on the 26th day, 9th month of 1776.[127] The Kyujanggak archive was located on the first floor of the building.[128]

Sajeonggibigak (사정기비각; 四井記碑閣; Sajŏnggibigak)
Seohyanggak (서향각; 書香閣; Sŏhyanggak)

Building used for various purposes over time. It was used to air out books for Kyujanggak, to store royal portraits, and to raise silkworms. The building and palace's connection to silkworms can be seen through the numerous mulberry trees around the palace, the leaves of which can be used to feed silkworms.[129]

Huiujeong (희우정; 喜雨亭; Hŭiujŏng)

A small pavilion. It was first built in 1646[125] century as a thatched roof building named Chwihyangjeong (취향정; 醉香亭; Ch'wihyangjŏng[130]). It received its current name in 1690.[131]

Cheonseokjeong (천석정; 千石亭; Ch'ŏnsŏkchŏng)

A small building.[132]

Yeongyeongdang area

[edit]
Photo Structure
Yeongyeongdang [ko] (연경당; 演慶堂; Yŏn'gyŏngdang; lit. Extending Congratulations Hall[133])

A sarangchae[134] used for ceremonies and events. It was built in 1828.[133] It does not have dancheong (traditional elaborate paintwork), and more closely resembles a nobleman's residence. This was intentional; while residing here, King Sunjo dressed like a regular nobleman and lived more simply. King Gojong sought refuge here during the 1884 Kapsin Coup, and Emperor Sunjong temporarily resided here after the 1917 fire.[135] "Yeongyeongdang" can also refer to the larger complex, which also includes an anchae with various facilities like kitchens.[136]

Seonhyangjae (선향재; 善香齋; Sŏnhyangjae; lit. Good Fragrance [From Books] Hall[136])

A study building used to receive guests.[137]

Nongsujeong (농수정; 濃繡亭; Nongsujŏng; lit. Embroidered with Colors Pavilion[137])

A small pavilion.[138]

Ongnyucheon area

[edit]

The stream Ongnyucheon [ko] (옥류천; 玉流川; lit. Jade Stream) flows through this area of the Secret Garden.[139] It was created in 1636.[140] This area was closed for access beginning in 1979, in order to protect the ecology of the area. It was reopened to the public on May 1, 2004 on a reservation only basis.[139] The pavilions Soyojeong, Taegeukjeong, and Cheonguijeong are collectively called the "Three Pavilions of the Royal Grove" (상림삼정; 上林三亭[141]) and have been described as scenic.[142]

Photo Structure
Soyojeong (소요정; 逍遙亭; Soyojŏng; lit. Living Without Worldly Cares Pavilion[143])

A small pavilion used for leisure.[144] It was completed in 1636.[140] A large rock in front of the pavilion has calligraphy by King Injo (written in 1636[125]) and a poem by King Sukjong. Injo and his subjects held wine drinking parties here, where cups of wine would be floated down the nearby stream.[144]

Cheonguijeong (청의정; 淸漪亭; Ch'ŏngŭijŏng; lit. Clear Ripples Pavilion[145])

The only thatched-roof pavilion in the palace.[146] It was completed in 1636.[140] In accordance with Taoist ideals of heaven being round and the earth square, its roof is round and floor square. In recent years, the agricultural ritual Ch'in'gyŏngnye (친경례; 親耕禮) has been reenacted here. The ritual involves the king participating in agriculture and a banquet in order to appease the agricultural deity Hou Ji.[146]

Taegeukjeong (태극정; 太極亭; T'aegŭkchŏng)

A small pavilion. It is named for the symbol taegeuk, which is also engraved in a nearby cistern.[147] It was completed in 1636.[140]

Chwigyujeong (취규정; 聚奎亭; Ch'wigyujŏng)

It was completed in 1640.[140]

Chwihanjeong (취한정; 翠寒亭; Ch'wihanjŏng; lit. Blue Cold Pavilion[148])

Resting place for kings near Ongnyucheon. Its name comes from the phrase "蒼翠凌寒", meaning "blue pines despise the cold of winter".[148]

Nongsanjeong (농산정; 籠山亭; Nongsanjŏng)

A pavilion. It has a kitchen that was used to prepare food and drink for the king during his visits.[149]

Aeryeonjeong area

[edit]
Photo Structure
Aeryeonjeong (애련정; 愛蓮亭; Aeryŏnjŏng; lit. Love for Lotuses Pavilion[150])

A small pavilion to the north of the pond Aeryeonji (애련지; 愛蓮池; Aeryŏnji[151]). It and its pond were first built in 1692.[125] There is a record of a pavilion of this name being constructed on an islet in the pond; it was rebuilt at its current location at some point.[152]

Gioheon (기오헌; 寄傲軒; Kiohŏn)
Uiduhap (의두합; 倚斗閤; Ŭiduhap; lit. Relying on the Big Dipper Gate[153])

A small hall used as a study room.[153]

Ungyeonggeo (운경거; 韻磬居; Un'gyŏnggŏ)

A storage building and annex to Uiduhap.[154]

Gwallamjeong area

[edit]
Photo Structure
Gwallamjeong (관람정; 觀纜亭; Kwallamjŏng)

A small pavilion uniquely shaped like a fan. It was also known as Seonjajeong (선자정; 扇子亭; Sŏnjajŏng). It has a unique name plaque shaped like a banana leaf. It is located next to the pond Bandoji (반도지; 半島池; Pandoji; lit. Peninsula Pond); that pond is said to resemble the shape of the Korean peninsula.[155]

Pyeomusa (폄우사; 砭愚榭; P'yŏmusa; lit. Vigilance Against Folly Pavilion[156])

A small pavilion near Jondeokjeong. Crown Prince Hyomyeong read books here. Joseon noblemen used to practice walking gracefully here.[156]

Seungjaejeong (승재정; 勝在亭; Sŭngjaejŏng; lit. Outstanding Scenery Pavilion[157])

A small pavilion.[157]

Jondeokjeong (존덕정; 尊德亭; Chondŏkchŏng)

A hexagonal pavilion that is elaborately painted.[158] It was built in 1644[140][158] and originally named Yukmyeonjeong (육면정; 六面亭; lit. Six-sided Pavilion). It has a two-tiered roof.[158] It is near the pond Banwolji (반월지; 半月池; Panwŏlji; lit. Half Moon Pond).[159]

Other structures

[edit]
Photo Structure
Gajeongdang (가정당; 嘉靖堂; Kajŏngdang)

It was relocated some time between 1911 and 1921.[41]

Neungheojeong (능허정; 凌虛亭; Nŭnghŏjŏng)
Cheongsimjeong (청심정; 淸心亭; Ch'ŏngsimjŏng)

Nakseonjae area

[edit]
Photo Structure
Nakseonjae [ko] (낙선재; 樂善齋; Naksŏnjae)

A hall used for various purposes over time. It has a relatively austere design, reflecting the Taoist frugality valued by King Heonjong.[160] It was built in 1847,[63][161] on the former site of the building Nakseondang (낙선당; 樂善堂; Naksŏndang).[161] Sunjong temporarily resided here after the 1917 fire.[162] Princess Euimin resided here from 1963 return to Korea until her death in 1989. Yi Un died here on May 1, 1970.[163]

Seokbokheon (석복헌; 錫福軒; Sŏkpokhŏn; lit. Bestowing Blessings Hall[164])

A residence for palace women.[164] It was built in 1848.[63] After Emperor Sunjong's death, Empress Sunjeonghyo continued to reside in this complex. She vacated it in 1950, during the Korean War, and only returned to it in 1960. She died in this hall in February 1966.[165]

Sugangjae (수강재; 壽康齋; Sugangjae; lit. Longevity Hall[166])

Originally built as a study for the king.[31] Used as a residence for royal women.[166] It was built in 1785.[167][161][112] It named for and located on the former site of Suganggung (which developed into Changgyeonggung).[31] It was renovated in 1847.[161] It was the residence of Queen Sunwon.[166][161] Princess Deokhye resided here from her 1962 return to Korea until her 1989 death.[163]

Sangnyangjeong (상량정; 上凉亭; Sangnyangjŏng)

A hexagonal pavilion with an intricately painted ceiling decorated with auspicious symbols.[168]

Hanjeongdang (한정당; 閒靜堂; Hanjŏngdang)

An annex to Seokbokheon.[169] It was built some time after 1917.[63] It has glass windows.[169]

Chwiunjeong (취운정; 翠雲亭; Ch'wiunjŏng)

Built in 1686,[63][170] it is the oldest extant building in the Nakseonjae complex.[170] It has ondol heated floors.[170]

Old Seonwonjeon area

[edit]
Photo Structure
Seonwonjeon (선원전; 璿源殿; Sŏnwŏnjŏn)

A royal ritual portrait hall used for ancestor worship. Portraits of past kings were enshrined here.[171] It is also called Jinjeon (진전; 眞殿; chinjŏn).[172] A hall with the same name and function used to exist in Gyeongbokgung, but was destroyed along with that palace in 1592, during the Imjin War.[173] Changdeokgung's Seonwonjeon was built in 1695[173] and dedicated to the Chinese Wanli Emperor, in thanks for China's support during the Imjin War.[174] It was renovated in 1725.[120] The spirit tablets of the first and last Chinese Ming emperors were enshrined here in 1749.[174] It was expanded in 1754,[125] 1778, 1846, 1851,[120] and 1900.[37] It was vacated during the early colonial period, and the new Seonwonjeon was completed in 1921. The portraits were moved there.[174][48]

Jinseolcheong (진설청; 陳設廳; Chinsŏlch'ŏng)
Naechaldang (내찰당; 內察堂; Naech'aldang)
Uipunggak (의풍각; 儀豊閣; Ŭip'unggak)

A warehouse building. It was constructed during the colonial period to store the possessions of the royal household.[65] The area it now occupies was formerly used for facilities for queen dowagers.[175]

Yangjidang (양지당; 養志堂; Yangjidang)

Where the king would stay before rituals at Seonwonjeon.[176] It was demolished some time between 1911 and 1921.[41]

Yeonguisa (영의사; 永依舍; Yŏngŭisa)

It was demolished some time between 1911 and 1921.[41]

New Seonwonjeon area

[edit]
Photo Structure
New Seonwonjeon (신선원전; 新璿源殿; Sinsŏnwŏnjŏn)

A royal portrait hall completed in 1921. It took over the function of the previous Seonwonjeon.[48][177] Lee et al. have argued the hall was moved further away from the rest of the palace in order to deemphasize the former royal family's ritual connection to their royal ancestors.[48] Previously, the building Daebodan occupied this site,[177] but was demolished some time between 1911 to 1921.[41] The New Seonwonjeon is the last portrait hall to be constructed in Korea.[177] Most of the portraits stored here were destroyed in the 1954 Busan Yongdusan fires.[178][179]

Uihyojeon (의효전; 懿孝殿; Ŭihyojŏn)

An annex building to the New Seonwonjeon.[178]

Jaesil (재실; 齋室; Chaesil)

An office building and annex to the New Seonwonjeon.[178]

Other

[edit]
Photo Structure
Bincheong (빈청; 賓廳; Pinch'ŏng)
Mongdapjeong (몽답정; 夢踏亭; Mongdapchŏng; lit. Dream Walking Pavilion[180])

A pavilion. Named for a dream King Sukjong had about the pavilion.[180]

Gwaegungjeong (괘궁정; 挂弓亭; Kwaegungjŏng; lit. Firing an Arrow Pavilion[181])

A pavilion used for practicing archery.[181]

Geumcheon and Geumcheongyo

[edit]

Geumcheon (금천; 錦川; lit. silky water[182]) is the kŭmch'ŏn [ko] (금천; 禁川; different Hanja but same Hangul spelling) that previously flowed through the palace. Water no longer flows through the stream.[182]

Geumcheongyo (2012)

The Changdeokgung Geumcheongyo [ko] (창덕궁 금천교; 昌德宮 錦川橋) is a kŭmch'ŏn'gyo (bridge over a kŭmch'ŏn) that crosses over Geumcheon. It was completed on the 18th day, 3rd month of 1411[60] and is the oldest extant kŭmch'ŏn'gyŏ of all Joseon palaces.[182][183] It has two arches. It has a number of stone statues of mythological creatures. On its northern baluster is a statue of the Black Turtle-Snake, mythological guardian of the north. The statue on the south baluster is the Bai Ze, guardian of the south. On each of the bridge's four newels is a statue of a Xiezhi. The bridge also has engravings of a dokkaebi (Korean goblin) called nati on both sides.[184]

Notes

[edit]
  1. ^ Called Igungjosŏngdogam (이궁조성도감; 離宮造成都監).[10]
  2. ^ The palace was built in the administrative district Hyanggyo-dong (향교동).[11]
  3. ^ Initially called Haeonjeong (해온정; 解溫亭; Haeonjŏng), renamed Sindokjae (신독재; 愼獨齋; Sindokchae) in 1414.[13]
  4. ^ 내약방; 內藥房; Naeyakbang; Naeyakpang
  5. ^ 비승각; 丕承閣; Pisŭnggak
  6. ^ 수정전; 壽靜殿; Sujŏngjŏn
  7. ^ Entitled Tonggwŏldohyŏng (동궐도형; 東闕圖形).
  8. ^ There is a record of a building with the same function as Daejojeon being named in 1461. However, the name no longer appears in later records, and "Daejojeon" appears instead. Thus, Lee et al. argue it is possible Yanguijeon and Daejojeon were two separate halls.[96]
  9. ^ The name "Secret Garden" stems from the organization that tended it. The earliest attestation to this name is from 1903. When the palace became a public park during the colonial period, this name grew traction with the public.[115]

References

[edit]
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Sources

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